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Published on 27-02-2007 In National
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'Of Exports and Other Exits'
Written by
Anita Ratnam
When 25- year-old Ammu hanged herself in the toilet of the garment factory where she worked on 10th February 2007, it evoked little attention from the media and even less from the apparel industry. One more suicide in a city known for its growing suicide rate is hardly newsworthy. Also, it can be conveniently blamed on an unstable personality or unhappy "personal" life. Yet the fact that Ammu was young, female, migrant, a single mother and desperately poor are not irrelevant factors in her becoming a garment factory worker. Indeed, each of these is what the garment industry looks for in getting a docile workforce where gender, youth-hood and poverty intersect to the advantage of the employer. While in most cases it spells indebtedness and drudgery, in Ammu's case it culminated in a discursive drama that lead her to death.

With her passing, the questions surrounding her final act of despair could easily fade away into oblivion. But for the three lakh women in and around Bangalore like Ammu, who continue to grapple with the very same issues on a daily basis, her death is too close to the bone, too grim a reminder of what their tenuous lives are about.
News has now spread that Ammu's supervisor had pushed her and even thrown fabric at her. Her colleagues have now narrated that when Ammu expressed inability to work at the speed demanded by her supervisor, the production manager refused to sign her exit pass and ordered Ammu to resume work. The suicide note written on her palm and on the exit pass she was clutching, states that she was forced to take this extreme measure due to this harassment. Ironic that the only "exit" she got was through death.

What makes this suicide so bizarre is that it has taken place while Brand Bangalore is busy acquiring an image of Garment City. After much hype about IT Parks and Electronic Cities, citizens of Bangalore have been told that we have one more dollar-earning industry to be proud of. The 900-odd ubiquitous garment factories have put namma Bengalooru on the global garment map, earning a whopping Rs 7000 crores last year.

The apparel boom is expected to take off in the wake of lifting of sanctions on textile imports by US and European countries following the 2005 Agreement on Textile and Clothing (ATC). Apart from export, the domestic retail market for foreign branded garments is also taking off, leading to a 2010 target of Rs. 10000 crores by the Clothing Manufacturers Association here.

The Karnataka State is not a silent spectator while all this happens. It has announced the setting up of 6 Apparel Parks at Doddaballapur, Harohalli, Davengere and even as far away as Bidar and Bellary which are in various stages of completion. Six large enclaves of 200 to 500 acres are being developed by the State to facilitate the setting up of apparel related production units- weaving, spinning, bleaching, dyeing, embroidery, fabric processing, printing, tailoring accessories like zips, buttons and labels or software for quality control. All such units can now be housed inside the "park" and easily supply each other's requirements while sharing common infrastructure from roads to security to common effluent treatment plants.

Inside the "parks", within each factory, a carefully calculated use of imported machines and local labour in finely calibrated proportions, is designed to maximise returns for the investor.




It is not difficult to figure out why for certain orders, specific machinery is switched off and manual processes done.

According to these mysterious formulae, each member of the human workforce, especially in the tailoring units, has to keep pace with an assembly line that moves at dizzying speeds, remote controlled by export order deadlines and fashion trends in the "west". Forcing a less than adequate workforce number to work overtime with no extra pay and harassment of women workers by male supervisors have become entrenched as "unavoidable" ways of meeting deadlines. And using deadlines as an excuse, a culture of fear and powerlessness has been cultivated on the shop floor, to prevent workers from articulating even basic rights- be it wages, or time to have lunch or take leave.

Against this backdrop, we keep hearing announcements claiming that each Apparel Park would house 100-200 units and employ 30,000 to 60,000 workers, of whom about 80% will be women. While the State is busy making things easy for the investors, the lack of adequate attention to workers issues is unacceptable. Somehow, with Ammu's death, and increasing visibility of the dehumanized workplace, any "euphoria" about these three lakh new jobs already stinks..

At the end of the day, the complex set of practices and norms at the workplace is about money. Where Ammu worked was one of the units of Gokaldas chain of companies. This is especially disturbing because the company is one of the chief promoters of the Apparel SEZ at Harohalli, already running several units around Bangalore, with an annual turnover of more than 1000 crores, a profit of 13% and employing 52200 workers. If this is the institutionalised workplace culture in the larger business houses, one shudders to think of the smaller garment sweat shops and fly by night sub-contract operators.

Thankfully today there is an attempt to organise such workers, not taking the factory as a unit (where unionising would be impossible), but unionising for the industry as a whole and linking with garment unions world wide. The International Trade Union, ITGLWF, has asked the company for an explanation regarding Ammu's death and has asked the Indian Labour Ministry as well as the certification agency WRAP ( Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production) to conduct an investigation of the prevailing labour conditions in the industry.

For those of us who watch from the sidelines, this seems the moment to salute the three lakh women garment workers of Bangalore. Applaud them, not just for enduring strife, but for the ways in which they are now coming together even as they survive long working hours, domestic chores, an excruciating pace of work, abusive supervisors, low wages and in the meantime manage pregnancies, childbirth, child care, et al, with almost no support from the employers.

But then as garment "consumers", our salutations to these exhausted women reduces to mere rhetoric, if we do not interrogate their multiple deprivations. More importantly, this is a time to re-examine our own work place practices and consumption patterns to question the hegemonies of class, age and gender that operate insidiously. Surely, all oppression needs dignified exits, not death.
 
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To draw a paralle”
By Mohammad Basirul Haq Sinha from Dhaka,Bangladesh

Country has observed the largest garment worker uprising in Bangladesh from 22 to 24 May’06. Although this sector earns 80% of the foreign currency the laborers do not have proper employment contract, standard working hour (8 hours per day), weekend, leisure hour, break to drink water or pee, proper toilet facilities, medical leave etc. Whether one likes it or not things have turned even nastier and more violent than it was 35 years ago. The well-to-do upper classes’ indifference to the growing chaos and suffering of the poor much more noticeable in Bangladesh than what prevailed during the turbulent days of 1966 or 1969. It is shocking and sickening that while the deaths of five students by police firing on February 21, 1952 stirred up the entire province of East Pakistan eventually leading to the creation of Bangladesh, hundreds of deaths of unarmed civilians by law-enforcing agencies and para-military forces during the last thirty five years, more so during the last decade or so, have hardly stirred up the polity.The latest attacks on several garment factories in and around Dhaka city by garment factory workers, who are the most productive and most exploited, the least rewarded and appreciated sections of the poor, have made headlines. The whole country seems to be worried. The predatory, rapacious garment factory owners, who always brag as the biggest foreign exchange earners for Bangladesh have come out on the street demanding “justice” and government intervention. Any law-abiding person, including myself, would expect that the rule of law prevails replacing chaos and disorder.However, one wonders what type of “justice” and “orderly behavior” the poor garment factory workers have been getting from either the garment factory owners (who remind me of the ruthless slave owners and the colonial plantation owners of the past) or the government! Is it fair to pay around sixty US cents to a factory worker per day (NOT PER HOUR)? Are not the government and members of the civil society aware of the fact that anyone earning less than a dollar per day is living below the poverty line? Are not human rights activist in Bangladesh and abroad aware of the fact that Bangladeshi garment factory workers are much worse off than slaves in US plantations with regard to calorie intake and not much better off with regard to freedom, leisure and human dignity? Since the answers to the above questions ( I can raise many more embarrassing questions for the government, garment factory owners and members of the so-called civil society) ought to be in the affirmative by any one having any sense of justice, honesty and human dignity, the answer to the question, “Who is responsible for burning down of garment factories?” is that the same people who are responsible for hundreds of deaths of garment factory workers by fire in factories are responsible for the latest “fire works” in and around garment factories as well.I was appalled by the quick outcry from both the government, the opposition and the garments and textiles owners blaming anarchists and conspirators from other countries for the outburst of violent protest that rocked the garments and textiles industries. This finally showed the ocean divide between the urban that is the (so called) educated folks as well as the workers and farmers in our country. When poor people were dying demanding electricity our self-styled educated and urban class was worried about cricket!Every single journalist and commentators were trying to protect the owners of these sweatshops in the name of saving the national export industry. I would like to know what how many of our population is directly benefited from these sweatshops and what is the percentage of GDP that comes from these sweatshops. I thought this outburst would finally bring the plight of the garment workers to the fore and something will be done to enforce some sort of law and standard for salary, working conditions and other compensation for the “Golden Girls” of our export industry. But to my utter disgust these owners were demonstrating and lying down on the roads! I have seen how these so called owners (I am not sure if they should be called owners as most of them build these factories by usurping bank-loans and black money) treat their most valuable resource - the employees of their factories. I think Bangladesh government treated this lumpen class better than they treat the workers. I have seen with my own eyes 9 years ago how an owner of a so called factory kicked an employee so hard that the employee soiled himself. And now these owners want protection and sympathy?Garments workers from Bangladesh deserve your support. They are now up against an organized campaign of misinformation and suppression.Please wish them success in securing their just demand for wages and time off

 
raman - Comments as on 28-02-2007

Dear Anita,
Your article exposing the plight of the garment worker Ammu not only made intersting reading regarding the state of affairs in the garment city of India, but should also be an eye opener for all social auditors who engage themsleves through various menas in attempting to improve working conditions globally. Ammu’s case is one in a million. It only got noticed as it was given due publicity by you. The case reminds me of another internatioanlly well known garment unit in Bangalore which has been very much in news because of the inhuman treatment of its workers within the factory premises. The fact finding report which has been since then made public presents a horrifying story of what actually is faced by these workers when they come to earn their livelihood. While as you pointed out it is heartening to note the attempts being made to organise these workers with the support of various unions, in the specific case I mentioned even the Indian labour organisations and the Garment and Textile Workers Union have been sidelined with the help of law, in their attempts to obtain justice for these workers . That is the greatest irony of the whole situation. The very law we speak of saying it accords protection for these workers has today placed a restraining hand on those who want to help them.
One does not need to ponder much to arrive at the conclusion that it is neither the laws, nor the standards, nor the codes that can do the trick but it is a change in attitude which can create a more humane atmosphere and make the world a better and dignified place to live in.

 
kalpanamurali - Comments as on 08-03-2007







     

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